Mourning Hair Art Jewelry
With Halloween just around the corner, we’ll take a look at an item rather ghoulish but fascinating: mourning jewelry. Honoring and mourning the deceased dates back to ancient civilizations. However, mourning jewelry was made popular during the reign of Queen Victoria, who mourned her late husband, Albert. Until the day she died, the queen wore mourning jewelry containing locks of her husband’s hair. Some were in the form of bracelets, others were lockets. Today, mementos are created in the manner of crematory jewelry where the deceased’s ashes are added to a piece.
I discovered a mourning hair art locket at the shop Victorious in Cape May. It was in a pocket watch style from the 1890s. The closed locket could be worn as a pendant hanging from a chain, as only the owner knew its contents. Also, it would be close to the heart as the dearly departed could be with you all the time.
Inside the piece are two locks of hair in different shades, protected under glass. Could it have been taken from two different people? The hair, one piece wavy and the other straight, in both brown and blonde tones seem to indicate this. Or could it have been from one individual over time? Was the hair from a mother and a child? Or two lost children? That’s the mystery that surrounds hair art.
Hair art isn’t relegated solely to mourning pieces, so each piece you find should be logically investigated. However, if the piece had etched mourning motifs indicating death and sadness, then you can be certain that piece was designed solely with that intention. Although hair art isn’t always a mourning piece the jeweler confirmed by the label that this exquisite piece that I found was indeed a mourning locket.
This locket is in a gold-filled setting. The precious hair was not always on display but tucked away in a case that was meant to be closed—until the contents were revealed by the wearer. But if it were decorative hair art, wouldn’t the owner want the piece to be displayed for all to see? That’s the beauty of owning a piece like this: trying to unravel the mystery behind it.
Often used for lockets was Jet (a type of coal called a lignite). It was cost effective and durable. Mourning motifs like urns, crosses, and weeping willows could be carved into it. On the reverse side, hair could be added, protected by a glass case.
An inspection of this locket shows the fine and delicate blonde hair seems to indicate that the hair came from a child. Although this piece lacks any white enamel, inscriptions, or angelic cherubs which were often used for a lost child, I strongly believe it to be a tribute to a child. Unfortunately, given the high mortality rates of children at the time, it is often the hair of a child lost too soon.
It appears gold wire embroidery was used, creating an intricate design that wove throughout the piece. The delicate wheat motif separating the locks is another indication that this is indeed mourning jewelry. Wheat was symbolic of everlasting life. Wearing a piece of mourning jewelry helps establish a close connection to the departed. And a rather grim but valid reason for the use of hair is that this is the only part of the body that doesn’t change or decay after death.
Possessing a piece of highly crafted hair jewelry set in precious metals gave the wearer a status. Often, a woman created the intricate work of art, giving the impression to others that she was talented, displaying her skill as a fine homemaker. If the piece was created by her hand and taken to a fine jeweler to incorporate it into a locket made of precious metals, all the better. However, usually the survivor/artist would set the finely crafted hair into the precious memento without the aid of a jeweler. They had the necessary tools on hand in the home—a curling iron, tweezers, special glue, delicate knife, and more. There were women and young girls who made a living by creating elaborate pieces for the wealthy.
Although pieces like this locket are few and far between to obtain, it still pays to purchase in person if you’re able. This way you can really examine it, looking for subtle scratches and dents and ensuring that the contents are intact. Glue was often used and can dry out, causing the hair to shift in the piece. Also, if it isn’t sealed correctly, bugs, air, and moisture can get in, damaging the piece beyond repair. Bring a magnifying glass to check for any signs of insect damage. And foremost, buy from reputable dealers that stand by their merchandise. When you take your piece home, avoid storing it in direct sunlight or extreme temperatures. As with all fine jewelry, it’s best to store in a cool and dry area.
Whether you are a seasoned collector or new to the market, mourning jewelry provides a window to the past while you appreciate and treasure the unsurpassed workmanship.
